Mainspring发条
The M. is a long, elastic, spirally wound strip of steel which is used to store the energy needed by a mechanical watch. A M. is housed inside a barrel. The M. develops its greatest torque when it is fully wound. As the M. gradually slackens, the torque declines correspondingly, and this gradual decline affects the watch’s rate. In watches with automatic winding, the M. is continually rewound. This keeps it at approximately the same degree of tautness, thus enabling it to maintain a relatively constant level of torque, which in turn keeps the watch’s rate nearly unvaried. In modern wristwatches, the so-called “Nivaflex” M. is the most frequently used type. Nivaflex is a special alloy which remains elastic and resists breakage for a long time.
发 条是高弹性螺旋状的长钢条,用于储存机械表所需的动力。发条装在发条匣内,发条上紧时能发挥最大的扭力,随着发条逐渐松弛,扭力便随之衰减,这会影响腕表 的运作速率。自动上链腕表的发条会持续上链,以维持其紧度,令扭力保持在相对恒定的水平,几乎不会影响腕表运作的速率。现代腕表最常使用Nivaflex 发条。Nivaflex是一种特殊合金,能长时间维持弹性和防止断裂。
Manufactory 制表厂
Strictly speaking, a watch manufacturer can only describe itself as a manufactory when the firm itself produces at least one ébauche of its own. Within the watch branch, a firm that specializes in the completion and encasing of ébaucheswhich it buys from extramural suppliers is generally known as an etablisseur. The exception to this rule are brands which encase movements that have been made exclusively or expressly for those brands. One such movement, for example, is Chronoswiss’ caliber C.122, an automatic movement formerly used by Enicar. Finally, there also exist modifications of standard calibers which have been developed and executed by commission from variousetablisseurs.
严格地说,钟表业者必须生产至少一种半成品机芯 (ébauche),才能被称为制表厂。在钟表业界,专门组装 (remontage) 购自专业供货商的半成品机芯被称为专业组装厂(etablisseur)。但有一个例外,就是为机芯装壳的品牌采用独家制作或特别为该品牌制作的机芯。例 如Chronoswiss的 C.122机芯就是以Enicar自动上链机芯进行改装。最后,各家专业组装厂也可委托业者修改标准机芯。
Mechanical timepieces 机械定时器
Timepieces which are powered by a mainspring and whose oscillating system runs on a purely mechanical basis, e.g. balance or pendulum.
以弹簧为动力,且震荡系统完全为机械式 – 如摆轮和摆锤 – 的定时器。
Mineral crystal矿物水晶玻璃
Type of glass which contains minerals and is used for watch-crystals. Advantage: harder (5 on Mohs’ scale) and thus more resistant to scratches than artificial glass (e.g. Plexiglas). Disadvantage: liable to shatter if sharply struck.
用来制作表镜的含矿物玻璃。优点包括硬度高(摩式硬度达5度),因而比人造玻璃(如塑料玻璃)更耐磨、更耐用。缺点为在重击下容易破碎。
Moon-phase display月相显示
A disk rotating beneath an aperture in the dial imitates the successive phases of the moon.
透过在表盘显示窗下转动的圆盘,模仿月相盈亏的巧妙变化。
Movement-blank空白机芯
A complete watch-movement (including plates, bridges, gear-train, steel parts, etc.) but without the escapement, balance-wheel, balance-spring, mainspring, dial and hands. Upon request, a M. is available either with or without inset bearing jewels. It is finished in accord with the standards of quality upheld by its maker. Because elaborate production facilities are required to manufacture a M., only a few specialized manufacturers develop and make them.
除擒纵机构、摆轮、游丝、发条、表盘和指针外一应俱全的机芯(包括基板、表桥、齿轮组、钢质零件等)。业者也可要求机芯镶嵌轴承宝石。该机芯会根据业者的质量要求完成。因为生产机芯需要相当设施,只有少数专业厂房才能开发和生产机芯。
Nivarox Nivarox
A special alloy used for balance-springs. N. doesn’t rust, is immune to magnetism, and scarcely reacts to changes in temperature.
一种用来制作游丝的特殊合金。特点为防磁、不生锈氧化、也几乎不受温度影响。