钟表技术辞典

A/h

Half-oscillations (also known as “beats” or “vibrations”) per hour. Two half-oscillations produce the familiar “tick-tock” of a mechanical watch. Together, two beats comprise one oscillation.

每小时半振动次数(也称为「节拍」或「振动」):两次半振动产生我们熟悉的机械表滴答声。两个节拍构成一次振动。

Analogue time display 行针显示

Display of the time by means of a pair of hands. The relative positions of the hour-hand and minute-hand combine to indicate the current time.

运用一对指针显示时间。利用时针和分针的相对位置来显示目前时间。

Anchor 擒纵锚

Two-armed connective lever between the gear-train and balance. The anchor conveys energy to the balance.

位于齿轮组和摆轮之间的双臂的杆状组件,功能为向摆轮系统输送动力。

Automatic winding / automatic

自动上链/自动腕表

A watch whose mainspring is wound by the motions of the wearer’s arm. These motions cause an oscillating weight (rotor) to turn. The rotation of the rotor tightens the mainspring. Invented by Abraham L. Perrelet (circa 1770).

单靠手臂动作即可为发条上链的表款。手臂活动时的动力引发自动盘转动,继而拉紧发条。发明者为Abraham L. Perrelet(约在1770年)。

Balance 摆轮

The balance works in combination with the balance-spring to regulate the rate of a mechanical watch. The precision of its construction decisively determines the precision of the timepiece. The annular balance can be defined as a statically poised “oscillating wheel.” In classical watch-movements, the balance oscillates at a pace of 5 beats per seconds (18,000 beats per hour). To improve the precision of the rate of modern wristwatches, the frequency of the balance has typically been increased to 19,800, 21,600, 28,800 or even 36,000 beats per hour. The speed of the balance’s rotations (at 28,800 beats per hour) corresponds to that achieved by the wheels of a locomotive travelling along a railroad track at a speed of approximately 140 km/h. A balance is used in all high-quality mechanical watches. Modern Glucydur (an alloy of copper and beryllium) balances have a hardness of 380 Vickers. This allows them to be excellently riveted, poised and finely regulated.

摆轮配合游丝可以调整机械表的运作速率,其结构精确度对腕表的精准度有决定性的影响。环形摆轮可被视为静止不动的「摆轮」。在古典机芯中,摆轮的振动频率为每秒5次(每小时18,000次)。现代腕表为了提高精准度,摆轮振动频率都增加到每小时19,800、21,600 、28,800、甚至36,000次。如果摆轮速度为每小时28,800次,就相当于以时速140公里行走的火车的车轮运动。所有优质机械表都采用摆轮。现代Glucydur(铍青铜合金)摆轮的硬度达维氏(Vickers)380 度,因此非常适合铆接、平衡和调整速率。

Balance-spring游丝

(Nivarox) The “soul” of a mechanical watch. This narrow, ribbon-shaped strip of metal helps to ensure that the balance swings to and fro at a regular rate. Lengthening or shortening the balance spring alters the duration of the balance’s beats.

(Nivarox) 游丝是机械表的「灵魂」。这条狭长的带状金属可确保摆轮以固定速率来回摆动。调整游丝的长短可调节振动时间。

Bearings 轴承

Holes drilled to accept the pivots of the gear-train. In fine wristwatches and pocket-watches, as well as in larger clocks, the bearings are specially fitted with jewels to minimize the friction encountered by the pivots of rapidly turning organs such as wheels and pinions. Simple (and simpler) timepieces make do with simple holes drilled into the plates, bridges or cocks. Over time and lacking adequate lubrication, these holes can widen. In this case, watchmakers who are capable, willing and properly trained can install brass or bronze settings.

用来承接齿轮组支轴的孔洞。高级腕表和怀表,以及较大型的钟,都采用蓝宝石轴承,以减少齿轮和小齿轮等快速转动机件支轴的摩擦。较简单的定时器则只需在基板、表桥、和夹板上挖钻孔洞承接。长时间下来加上缺乏润滑,这些孔洞会变大。如果发生这种情形,技艺纯熟并经过适当训练的表匠可以加装黄铜或青铜的镶座。

Bezel lunette表框

Ring affixed together with the inset watch-glass to the middle of a watch-case. Typically snapped on, the bezel is always screwed to the case in every Chronoswiss watch.

与表镜一同固定在表壳中间的环状物。通常只是卡上去,但所有Chronoswiss表款的表框都以螺丝固定。

Blued hands 蓝钢指针

Bluing occurs when the surface of a steel component oxidizes upon exposure to heat. A dark blue color can be achieved at temperatures between 290º and 310º C.

如果将钢质表面加热到极高温度,就会因氧化而变成蓝色。钢质于摄氏290至310度的高温就会氧化成深蓝色。

Cabochon 弧面圆形宝石

A precious stone polished into a rounded shape but lacking facets.

将宝石仔细打磨成没有切面的浑圆外形。

Cadrature支架

An auxiliary mechanism, usually located directly beneath the dial, to support with watch’s chimes, calendar functions or chronograph functions.

一种辅助性机件,通常直接位于表盘下方,用来支持击锤、日历显示、或计时功能。

Caliber 机芯

A technical term designating the form and or size of a movement and usually also specifying the type of movement. The movement’s diameter is often expressed in lignes. One ligne (1’”) = 2.256 mm.

代表机芯造型和尺寸的技术性名词,通常也显示机芯类型。机芯直径经常以法分 (lignes)为单位。一法分 (1’”) 相当于2.256毫米。

Carat  克拉

A unit of measurement specifying the amount of gold in an alloy. The carat scale ranges from zero to 24. Fine gold, which is nearly 100% pure, is described as 24 carat. The case of an 18-carat gold wristwatch has 750 parts per thousand of fine gold, together with various other metals mixed into the alloy (e.g. copper, brass, silver, etc.). A carat is also a unit of weight: one carat is 1/24th of a kilogram of fine gold, or 41.66 grams. The purity of the gold alloy is stamped into the surface of the case with a punch.

表示合金中黄金含量的单位。克拉数值从0到24,24克拉就代表近乎100%纯金。18克拉表壳意味纯金比例为750/1000,再加上其他金属(如红铜、黄铜、银等)组成合金。克拉也是重量单位:一克拉相当于1/24公斤或41.66克的纯金。黄金合金的纯度标示会以冲压机打在表壳上面。

CET 中欧时间

Central European Time. Germany and other Central European countries introduced CET on April 1, 1893. Time in this time zone is one hour ahead (+1) of word or universal time as defined by the mean solar time at zero degrees of longitude, the meridian which runs through Greenwich, England (Greenwich Mean Time).

CET是中欧时间的英文缩写。德国和中欧国家于1893年4月1日引进CET。该时区的时间比世界时间早一小时,这是根据0经度的平均太阳时 间 (mean solar time) 而设定,也就是穿过英格兰格林威治的子午线(格林威治时间)。

Chamfering (also “beveling”)  倒角

Chamfered edges on the steel parts are characteristic of the finest watches. Chamfering is performed either mechanically with a pantograph or traditionally by hand with a file along the part’s edge. The angle of the chamfer is 45 degrees.

钢质零件倒角处理是高级腕表的特征之一。倒角处理使用机械配合缩图器,或传统人手工艺,以锉刀修饰零件边缘。倒角的角度为45度。

Chronograph (Greek: “time-writer”)  计时秒表 (Chronograph,在希腊文中为时间写入装置的意思)

A watch with a stopwatch mechanism (start, stop, and return to zero).

具秒表机件(开始、停止、归零)的表款。

Chronograph rattrapante飞返式计时秒表

= double-handed = fly-back. Chronoswiss also makes fly-back chronographs (patented construction).

= 双指针 = 飞返。Chronoswiss也制作飞返计时秒表(专利结构)。

Chronometer精密定时器

A precision timekeeping instrument which has passed an official 15-day series of tests at an official testing site (C.O.S.C.). Its average daily rate must be between –4 and +6 seconds in five positions. Its daily deviation of rate must not exceed 2 seconds; its greatest daily deviation must not exceed 5 seconds. All would-be chronometers are tested at three temperatures: 20º, 4º and 36º Celsius. If the watch performs within the predefined tolerances, it earns the right to be designated as a chronometer and receives a rating-certificate (bulletin de marche).

通过官方测试机构 (C.O.S.C.) 15天一系列测试的精准计时仪器。被测试的定时器于五个位置的每日平均运行速率必须在–4和+6秒之间。平均每日误差不得超过2秒;每日最大误差不得超过5秒。同时也会测试定时器在温度摄氏20、4、和36度的表现。如果受测表款符合预定的误差标准,就能被定义为精密定时器和得到证书(bulletin de marche)认证。

Chronoswiss 瑞宝表

Worldwide registered trademark. “Chrono” = mechanical watches; “Swiss” = all components are manufactured in Switzerland. Founded by Gerd-R. Lang in 1983.

Chronoswiss

全球注册商标。“Chrono” = 机械表;“Swiss” =瑞士精制。由Gerd-Rüdiger Lang先生于1983年创立。

Cocks摆轮夹板

Cocks are fitted with bearings in which the lever, balance or wheels pivot. A cock is affixed at only one point by means of so-called “feet.”

摆轮夹板上有轴承,作为杠杆/马仔)、摆轮、齿轮的支轴。摆轮夹板只以单点固定。

Crown  表冠

A button which can be turned to wind the watch, to adjust the positions of its hands, to adjust its date display, etc.

透过转动表冠为腕表上链、调整指针位置、日期显示等的钮。



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